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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.